Crossway Mittens- Free Crochet Pattern

We started out with the Galway girl Glittens early last year and brought you another fun glitten pattern late last year in the Arroway Glittens. Then there was the Diamondway Hand Warmers, and now the Crossway Mittens!
What do all of these patterns have in common outside of the “way” at the end of their names? They’re all a slight variation of the same pattern! Which means that you could make the Galway Girl Glittens into Mittens instead, or the Crossway Mittens in to Hand Warmers, or the… well, you get the gist. Technically, there are 12 total variations (I think I did the math on that right LOL). Pretty fun, right?!?
If you like the tapestry design here, it can be used to make a pair of glittens as well, all you need to do is use this grid instead of the tapestry design used in the Arroway Glitten Pattern found here. For the tutorial of adding the fingers, thumb and finger cap, visit the Glitten Tutorial Blog Post here.
If you’d rather keep these as Hand Warmers, see the notes below.
I hope you have gotten a kick out of this line of patterns and get the opportunity to make one of each!
What you need
2 skeins bulky (size 5) primary color skein of yarn (I used Loop and Threads Charisma in Red)- approximately 118 yards or 108 grams
1 skein bulky (size 5) secondary color skein of yarn (I used Loop and Threads Charisma Tweed in Cream)- approximately 60 yards or 54 grams
1 5.50MM crochet hook
scissors
stitch marker
Completed Measurements
Height to the Top of Cap: 10″
Width: 4″ across
Gauge
14 sc= 4″
14 rows= 4″
Abbreviations Used
ch= Chain
sc= Single Crochet
blo= Back loop only
flo= Front loop only
sl st= Slip Stitch
st(s)= Stitches(s)
sk st(s)= Skip Stitch(s)
pu= Pick Up
dec= decrease
Pattern notes
- Pattern is written in US standards
- These make for some pretty chunky and slightly loose mittens. Where the fingers of the glitten pattern help secure the glittens in place, these mittens do not have that securing attribute. Maybe you’ll think they’re a bit more comfy that way, but if you don’t like that idea I would recommend going down a hook size.
- ** You can also join the cuff by slip stitching in the back loops of row 30 to the foundation chain. This makes for a little wider of a cuff, but prevents you needing to fasten off and rejoining the primary color in round 2 of the tapestry grid.**
- The palm section is worked in joined rounds, whereas the thumb is worked in continuous rounds
- For the palm section rounds 2-8, you will follow the tapestry grid provided. Dark squares represent the primary color and the white squares represent the secondary color.
- The color changes will be worked as such: insert hook, pull up a loop in secondary color, yarn over in primary color, and pull through both loops on your hook.
- Rather than fastening off after the color change of rows 1 and 9-15, I like to carry the unused strand and work into the join stitches then drop for remainder of the round. This prevents a lot of weaving in ends.
- After detaching primary yarn in round 15, I like to carry the tail behind the first few stitches, so you don’t have to weave it in later.
- ***To make these mittens into hand warmers, you will simply fasten off and weave in all ends at the end of round 15 for the palm pattern. Ignoring the instructions for the thumb.
Ribbing Pattern
Foundation: Ch 8, turn
Row 1: Starting in the 1st ch from your hook , sc 7 in blo, turn
Row 2-30: Ch 1, sc 7 in blo, **fasten off at the end of row 30 leaving tail. Use the tail to join the foundation to row 30 to create a cylinder. I prefer the mattress stitch for this, but a whip stitch will work too.**
Palm Pattern
Foundation: attach 2nd color, ch 1 and pick up 30 stitches around the top (30)
Round 1-8: sl st, ch 1, sc into same st, follow tapestry design. (30)
Round 9 (left hand): in secondary color: sl st, ch 1, sc 3, skip 7, ch 7, sc 20 (30)
Round 9 (right hand): in secondary color: sl st, ch 1, sc 20, sk 7, ch 7, sc 3 (30)
Round 10: in secondary color: sl st, ch 1, sc around, sl st (30)
Round 11-15: sl st, p/u primary color yarn and drop secondary. ch 1, sc around (30)
***fo, and weave in ends if you would like to keep these as hand warmers***
Round 16: [continuing in primary yarn] sl st, ch 1, sc 13, dec, sc 13, dec (28)
17-23: sl st, ch 1, sc around (28)
Round 24: sl st, ch 1, *sc 5, dec, repeat from * around (24)
Round 25: sl st, ch 1, *sc 4, dec, repeat from * around (20)
Round 26: sl st, ch 1, * sc 3, dec, repeat from * around (16)
Round 27: sl st, ch 1, * sc 2, dec, repeat from * around (12)
Round 28: sl st, ch 1, *sc, dec, repeat from * around (8)
Round 29: sl st, ch 1, dec around, fasten off and weave in end (4)
Pattern for Thumb (work one on each mitten)
*Please note: each thumb is worked in continuous rounds (vs. the joined rounds used in the pattern for the palm)
Foundation: pu secondary yarn towards middle most st of thumb hole. Work 15 sc around.
Round 1: sc around (15)
Round 2: *sc 3, decrease*, repeat from * around (12)
Round 3-6: sc around (12)
Round 7: *sc 2, decrease*, repeat from * around (9)
Round 8-9: sc around (9)
Round 10: *sc 1, decrease*, repeat from * around (6)
Round 11: decrease 3 times, fasten off and weave in ends (3)
And you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making these!
Great pattern(s), but how on earth do you get a gauge of 15 stitches and 15 rows = 4″? With Lion Brand Woolspun (#5) I can get 14 st and 14 rows to 4″, but only with a 4mm hook! Maybe Woolspun is too bulky?