Cobblestone Cardigan- FREE Pattern

About The Design  

You guys!  It’s FINALLY here!!! Can you believe it?  I know I hardly can. 

I had originally designed this cardigan back when we didn’t all feel so bombarded with ick.  That’s right, this cardigan has been in the works since Fall, 2019!  Do you remember 2019?  Back when Fall meant that kids were in school, meeting indoors at Starbucks for a Pumpkin Spice Latte was no big deal and you actually looked forward to all the holiday parties and events right around the bend instead of dreading what the next month might look like? 

Well, as much as 2020 has been a real kick in the butt for most of us, it has brought about some good things… 1st we welcomed our 3rd little one to the family in April AND now I get to release this most amazing pattern to the world! Year made.  Amiright? 😂

In all seriousness though, I do hope that this cardigan can bring some extra joy and cheeriness to the rest of your 2020 and beyond that.  Because is there anything more cozy than a hot cuppa with an extra snuggly cardigan on a chilly fall or winter morning? There is not. 

When I first designed this pattern all those centuries ago, I had one goal in mind.  Cozy.  I was just starting to get into making top down raglans and in need of a cardigan for myself.  I wanted something that was a bit heavier weight than our Mary’s cardigan and really felt inclined to mimic the puffy sleeves of El’s Top Down Sweater. So the Cobblestone Cardigan was born. 

But why did it take so long to get out into the world?  Well, I can never do anything easy so I also wanted the opening around the front to gradually increase (instead of being a blunt corner by the neck) which posed some issues in our first round of testing on certain sizes.  Rather than rushing to publish a pattern that would not comfortably fit all sizes, I decided to take a step back and work on perfecting it a bit more.  

I worked with our testers to identify the problem areas and adjusted where I could.  I hired a tech editor to make sure the pattern and math was perfect.  And then I sent it out for a 2nd round of testing.  And I’m pleased as punch to say that the 2nd round of testing was flawless! So I am now ready to share it with you all and feel pretty confident that you’ll love this pattern regardless of what size you need to make it in. 

About the Pattern

This is an intermediate level pattern and is size inclusive, meaning it has been graded to fit all body types from XS-5XL.  It is a top-down raglan style cardigan which means a few things.  The length of the body and sleeves are completely customizable.  There are no seams, and if you choose to work the ribbing as you go, absolutely no sewing is required with the exception of the optional pockets…. 

Oh the pockets.  Did I forget to mention those pockets!?!  This pattern comes with 2 different pocket variations.  Seed stitch pockets (to match the rest of the cardi) or CABLED POCKETS.  It’s got cabled pockets y’all!  Boooya! 🎉.

Here’s the kicker tho guys, I don’t have a tutorial for the cardigan. I have some pictures added into the pattern to help you along and I am including some additional info regarding the 2nd row below, but no official video or picture tutorial.  Since it’s been so long since I made my own and I was not proactive in editing and writing a tutorial while it was fresh in my mind, I felt it would be more of a disservice to try and go back now to put a tutorial together.  So if you’re a new crocheter, you may find this pattern a little more on the challenging side.  That being said; I do have a stitch chart for the yoke and schematic available on the PDF, which can often be helpful when navigating a pattern. 

The inexpensive PDF is available across all our stores including: on our site, on Etsy and on Ravelry.  This PDF is color coded for easy follow along, regardless of the size you’re making.  It is printable and ad free.  And best of all, 50% of all pattern sale proceeds are donated to end modern day slavery and human trafficking

Ready to jump in and get crocheting?  Cool!  We’d be honored if you shared a picture of your completed Cobblestone Cardigan with us on Instagram and cannot wait to see how yours turns out! 

About The 2nd Row

You may be wondering why I have a whole section dedicated to one line of the pattern.  Well, since I don’t have a step-by-step tutorial, I wanted to address the trouble area for our testers.  We tried rewording this portion in several ways, and have settled on the way it is written in the pattern.

This row is where you will be setting the foundation for the ch-2 spaces that will create the square of your yoke. 

The confusion came in with how many stitches to work into each section surrounding the the ch-2’s.  The way I have it written is that you will work the total amount of stitches mentioned in the pattern, i.e. for the XS, you will work a total of 13 stitches (counting each single crochet and double crochet individually) between the first and 2nd ch-2 spaces.  So the very first seed stitch written in the pattern before the * that indicates the repeat will count as your first two stitches in that 13 total.  

It’s important the the stitch count is correct in this row since every other row following will depend on this as the foundation for where you’ll be working to the ch-2 space corners.  So if you end this row with stitches left over, or have too many stitches, it’ll be key that you frog it until you get the numbers to match up.  

Still having issues? I love hearing from our followers, so feel free to “contact us” and I’ll get back to you asap. 😀 

 

About The Yarn

I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Re-Tweed yarn for my cardigan.  I love that this yarn has been made with recycled wool, it comes in beautiful colors and it makes for a really snuggly cardigan!  HOWEVER, it will feel a bit stiff while making your cardigan.  A few washes and some wear will help the drape significantly, but it does not make a cardigan that is ultra flowy (👈 It’s a word cuz I say so 🤣) so if that’s your goal- consider a softer yarn. 

Don’t wan’t that fresh-from-the-sheep-farm feel to your cardigan? Any other worsted weight yarn will work fine as a substitute. This is a pretty standard worsted weight, so the key will be to make sure you meet gauge to get the best fit with the yarn you choose!

Now on to the pattern!

The Pattern 

What You Need 
  • 6.00mm (US J) crochet hook  (or hook to obtain gauge) 
  • 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins of Lion Brand’s Re-Tweed yarn or other similar worsted weight yarn (approximately 1115, 1245, 1375, 1525, 1715, 1900, 2055, 2270, 2455 yards)
  • Embroidery or darning needle
  • Scissors 
Approximate Completed Sizes
Size Bust
Circumference
Body
Length
Underarm
to Wrist
Arm
Circumference
XSmall 29″ 23.25″ 20.5″ 15″
Small 33″ 23.75″ 21″ 15.5″
Medium 37″ 24″ 21″ 16″
Large 41″ 24.25″ 21.5″ 17″
XLarge 45″ 24.5″ 21.5″ 19″
2XLarge 49″ 24.75″ 22″ 21″
3XLarge 53″ 24.75″ 22″ 22″
4XLarge 57″ 25.25″ 22.5″ 23″
5XLarge 61″ 25.25″ 22.5″ 25″
Gauge Used (body)
12 in the seed stitch pattern= 4”

10 rows of seed stitch pattern= 4” 

Gauge Used (ribbing portions)
13 hdc sts= 4”

 

8 rows of hdc in blo= 4” 

Abbreviations Used 
ch= chain 

sc= single crochet 

dc= double crochet 

Ch-1 sp= chain 1 space 

sm= stitch marker 

sc2tog= single crochet two together 

p/u= pick up [yarn]

Sl st= slip stitch 

fo= fasten off 

Special Stitches
Seed Stitch= sc in first stitch, dc in next. When working subsequent rows dc will be worked into sc, and sc will be worked into dc. 
General Pattern Notes
  • This pattern is written in US standard size and abbreviations
  • This cardigan is written to fit to size, with a 0 ease on the bust, and puffy sleeves
  • The pattern is written in x-small size with (small, medium, large, x-large, 2x-large, 3x-large, 4x-large and 5x-large) sizes to follow in parentheses.  
  • The majority of this pattern is written in the seed stitch.  To achieve this look, you will need to make sure that you are always (unless otherwise noted) working a single crochet into the double crochet from the previous row, and vice versa. 
  • The Yoke, body, ribbing and pocket patterns are worked back and forth in rows with turning chs at the beginning of each row.  These ch sts do not count as a stitch. 
  • Due to the complexity of this pattern, I have broken the pattern notes up into sections throughout.  Please read all pattern notes before continuing through that section. 
Yoke Pattern Notes
  • I HIGHLY recommend placing stitch markers in the 4 “ch1” corners of the yoke and moving down each row.  Since you will be working 2 stitches into the ch-1 space, placing stitch markers will make sure the ch-1 does not get lost while you go. 
  • In row 2 when repeating the seed stitch to the ch-1 sps, you will be working the total stitches mentioned, which will include the first seed stitch before the *
  • Rows 2 and 3 will be worked differently for the first 5 sizes, versus the last 4 sizes
  • *For the XS size, you will move on to “splitting the yoke” after row 14.  
  • **For the Small size, you will move on to “splitting the yoke” after row 15.  For the 2XL size, you will move on to “splitting the yoke” after row 19.  For the 3XL size, you will only repeat 1 row before moving on to “splitting the yoke”
  • While working the yoke, there will be instances that you will continue half of the seed stitch before working into the ch-1 space.  For example on row 3, the pattern states to “ *sc, dc, repeat from * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp”.  The last st before the ch-1 space, will be a single crochet (ignoring the final double crochet implied)
  • For the x-small on row 14, you will only repeat row 6 once then move on to row 15 in the next section of splitting the yoke. 

Yoke Pattern (all sizes) 

Foundation: ch 47 (59, 65, 81, 101, 103, 115, 133, 145

Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * across, turn (46, 58, 64, 80, 100, 102, 114, 132, 144

Row 2 (for X-Small through Medium Sizes): ch-1, sc, dc, (sc, ch-1, sc ) in next, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to *for a total of 13 (17, 19) sts, (sc, ch-1, sc) in next, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * for a total of 12 (16, 18) sts, (dc, ch-1, dc) in next, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * for a total of 13 (17, 19) sts, (dc, ch-1, dc) in next, sc, dc, turn (50, 62, 68)

Row 2 (for Large through 5X-Large Sizes): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * two more times (sc, ch-1, sc ) in next, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * for a total of 19(27 ,27, 31, 35, 39) sts, (sc, ch-1, sc) in next, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * for a total of 26 (30, 32, 36, 40, 44) sts, (dc, ch-1, dc) in next, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * for a total of  19(27, 27,31, 35, 39) sts, (dc, ch-1, dc) in next, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * two more times, turn (84, 104, 106, 118, 136, 148)

Row 3(for X-Small through Medium Sizes): ch 2, (dc, sc) in first st, dc, sc, (dc, ch-1, dc ) into ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc), dc, sc, (dc, sc) in last sc, turn. (60, 72, 78)

Row 3 (for Large through 5X-Large Sizes: ch 2, (dc, sc) in first st, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to 1st ch-1 sp,  (dc, ch-1, dc) into ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to last, (dc, sc) in last sc, turn. (94, 114, 116, 128, 146, 158)

Row 4: ch 2, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (68, 80, 86, 102, 122, 124, 136, 154, 166)

Row 5: ch-1, (sc, dc) into first st, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to last st, (sc, dc) in last dc, turn (78, 90, 96, 112, 132, 134, 146, 164, 176)

Row 6: ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to  next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (86, 98, 104, 120, 140, 142, 154, 172, 184)

Row 7-13 (13, 13, 13, 13, 17, 17, 17, 17): repeat rows 3-6 (150, 162, 168, 184, 204, 242, 254, 272, 284

Row 14 (14,14, 14, 14, 18, 18, 18, 18): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc), *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (158, 170, 176, 192, 212, 250, 262, 280, 292

Row * (15, 15, 15, 15, 19, 19, 19, 19):   ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (dc, ch-1, dc) in ch-1 sp, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, (sc, ch-1, sc) in ch-1 sp, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to next ch – sp, (sc, ch-1, sc), *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (178, 184, 200, 220, 258, 270, 288, 300

Row **(16, 16, 16, 20, 20, 20)- (16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22): repeat last 2 rows  (192, 216, 244, 278, 304, 324)

Splitting The Yoke

For sizes: XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL

Row 15 (17, 19, 21, 23): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, dc into 1st and next ch-1 sp (sk 39 (49, 61, 69, 81) between ch-1 sps, 1st arm hole created) , *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to next ch-1 sp, sc into this and next ch-1 sp (sk 39 (49, 61, 69, 81) between ch-1 sp, 2nd arm hole created) *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (82, 96, 124, 142, 164)

For sizes: S, L, 2XL, 4XL

Row 16 (18, 20, 22): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to first ch-1 sp, sc into 1st and next ch-1 sp (sk 45 (51, 63, 75) between ch-1 sps, 1st arm hole created), *dc, sc*, repeat from *to * to next ch-1 sp, dc into 1st and next ch-1 sp (sk 45 (51, 63, 75) between ch-1 sps, 2nd arm hole created) *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * to end, turn (90, 114, 134, 156)

Body Pattern Notes
  • Every row of the body portion (excluding the yoke and arms) should start with a single crochet and end in a double crochet 
  • If you would rather add the ribbing directly to the body rather than making a separate piece for it, do not fasten off at the end of this portion, and rather move on to the “Ribbing Pattern Notes” 

Body Pattern (all sizes): 

Row 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24)- 57 (58, 59, 60, 60, 61, 61, 62, 62): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * across, turn (82, 90, 96, 114, 124, 134, 142, 156, 164)

Row 58 (59, 60, 61, 61, 62, 62, 63, 63): ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * across, fo (82, 90, 96, 114, 124, 134, 142, 156, 164)

Arm Pattern Notes
  • The arms are worked in continuous spiral rounds (vs joined rounds) 
  • Since the seed stitch is meant to be worked in rows- the sleeves will have a slightly different look than the rest of the pattern.  With the way the stitches form, you may end up having better definition of the seed stitch on the wrong side of the sleeves.  Since the rest of the cardigan is reversible- I resolved this discrepancy issue by working both sleeves, then turning the whole garment inside-out before adding the cuffs and pockets. 

Right Arm Pattern For sizes: XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL & Left Arm Pattern for S, L, 2XL, 4XL 

Round 1: p/u yarn at dc worked into ch-1 sps (located at center-bottom of arm hole while splitting the yoke) sc into dc and place sm, dc in next, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 2: *dc, sc*, repeat from * to *  around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 3: *sc, dc*, repeat from * to *  around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 4- 50 (51, 52, 53, 53, 54, 54, 55, 55): repeat rounds 2 & 3 (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 51 (52, 53, 54, 54, 55, 55, 56, 56): 

Sc, sc2tog in each remaining st around, fo

(20, 23, 25, 26, 31, 31, 35, 38, 41)

Turn arms inside out for best seed stitch look 

Right Arm Pattern  For sizes: S, L, 2XL, 4XL  & Left Arm Pattern For sizes: XS, M, XL, 3XL, 5XL

Round 1: p/u yarn at sc worked into ch-1 sps (located at center-bottom of arm hole while splitting the yoke) dc into sc and place sm, sc in next, *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 2: *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 3: *dc, sc*, repeat from * to * around (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 4- 50 (51, 52, 53, 53, 54, 54, 55, 55): repeat rounds 2 & 3 (39, 45, 49, 51, 61, 63, 69, 75, 81)

Round 51 (52, 53, 54, 54, 55, 55, 56, 56): 

Sc, sc2tog in each remaining st around, fo

(20, 23, 25, 26, 31, 31, 35, 38, 41)

Turn arms inside out for best seed stitch look 

Ribbing Pattern Notes
  • The rows of ribbing for the body and the rows around the body opening will not match up perfectly.  The best way to attach would be to tack the ribbing in place using sm around and seam every few stitches of the body to one row of the ribbing.  
  • As an alternative to creating the ribbing as a separate piece, you can add it to the body as you go. To do so, you will not fasten off at the end of the body, but rather move on to the foundation of this pattern.  Follow row 1 as written, but before you turn, you will ss into 3 unworked rows of the body.  Continue by following the sequence of hdc in the blo, and slip stitching into the body every other row.  For additional help working this method, I recommend this tutorial by TL Yarn Crafts found here.
  • The ribbing for the arm cuff and the  stitches of the sleeve will not match up perfectly.  The best way to attach would be to tack the ribbing in place using sm around and seam every few stitches of sleeve to one row of the cuff.  For the arm cuff the stitch count for each size is the same so there are no numbers listed in parentheses.
  • If you choose to add the ribbing as you go, you will need to slip stitch into every 4 sts of the sleeve rather than just 3 to get a more drastic closure of the sleeve. 

Body Ribbing Pattern (make 1)

Foundation: ch 6 (9, 12, 10, 10, 11, 13, 12, 14

Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc across, turn (4, 6, 10, 8, 8, 9, 11, 10, 12)

Row 2- 78 (87, 91, 100, 116, 118, 126, 139, 147): ch2, hdc in blo across, fo (4, 6, 10, 8, 8, 9, 11, 10, 12)

Using an embroidery needle and yarn, attach the edge of body ribbing to the opening of the cardigan starting in the lower left corner, working around the neck and down the other side using the mattress stitch.  Fasten off and weave in ends. 

Arm Cuff Ribbing Pattern (make 2)

Foundation: ch 7 

Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc across, turn 

Row 2- 13 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16):  ch2, hdc in blo across, fo leaving a tail. 

Use tail to seam foundation  to last row of the ribbing with mattress stitch, creating a cylinder.  Use yarn to mattress stitch the seam to sc2tog round of sleeve openings.  

Pocket Pattern Notes
  • The pockets will be the same size regardless of which size you are making. 
  • There are two pocket patterns included in this PDF.  The first, as shown in pictures, is a pocket with cabling.  If you are uncomfortable with cabling, or prefer a more simple look, you can make the alternate pocket pattern, which is a seed stitch based pocket.  If you go the cabled pocket route, I recommend this helpful video tutorial by Sewrella found here.  
  • The ribbing on top of the pockets is added as you go, rather than being a separate piece attached later.  I recommend this tutorial by TL Yarn Crafts found here

Cabled Pocket Pattern (make 2) 

Foundation: ch-19

Row 1 (RS): starting in 4th ch from hook, dc across, turn (16)

Row 2 (WS): ch 2, dc2, bpdc 12, dc 2, turn (16)

Row 3 (RS): ch 2, dc 2, sk 4, fptc 4 in next 4, fptc in front of the 4 sk sts, fpdc 4, dc 2, turn (16)

Row 4 (WS): ch 2, dc 2, bpdc 12, dc 2, turn (16)

Row 5 (RS): ch 2, dc 2, fpdc 4, sk 4 sts, fptc 4 in next 4, fptc behind into the 4 sk sts, dc 2, turn (16)

Row 6-8: repeat rows 2-4 (1 more time), turn, with yarn in tact, move on to “pocket ribbing pattern) 

Alternate Pocket Pattern (make 2)

Foundation: ch-17

Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (16)

Row 2: ch-1, *sc, dc*, repeat from * to * across, turn (16)

Row 3-10: repeat row 2, with yarn in tact, move on to “pocket ribbing pattern” 

Pocket Ribbing Pattern (for both pockets)

Foundation: Ch 5

Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc across, sl st into first 2 sts at top of pocket, turn (3) 

Row 2: hdc in blo across, turn (3) 

Row 3: ch 2, hdc in blo across, sl st into next 2 sts from top of pocket, turn (3) 

Row 4-16: repeat rows 2&3, fo leaving long tail. 

Using sm, place pockets on either side of the cardigan, approximately 1 row up from the bottom, and 1 seed stitch row in from the side of either opening.  Using long tail from pocket, mattress stitch (or method of choice) the pocket into place, starting at one ribbing corner, working down, around the bottom and up the other side.  Tie off and weave in ends.

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