The Murphy Slouchy Beanie- Free Pattern

**Below you will find the free step-by-step picture tutorial and pattern for this beautiful slouchy.  If you would rather have a large font, ad-free version of the pattern, you can purchase the inexpensive PDF from my Etsy shop here.**

*Also, if you enjoy making this beanie hat, then you will LOVE making the matching Cozy Cabled Cowl.  The free crochet pattern for that can be found here.*

I have mentioned before that I am super into slouchy beanies at the moment.  They are super comfy and compliment any fashion style. I have a few store bought ones that were gifted to me and every time I wear one I am asked if I made it.  I figured it was high time to actually make one so I could finally start responding with, “why yes I did, how kind of you to ask”.


I love cable stitches and will never forget the first time I realized you could do this beautiful technique with crochet (not just knit).  I was so excited and immediately started formulating ways to utilize it and a beanie was one of the first ideas I had.  I recently published a mug cozy pattern which you can see here.  I highly recommend making one if you are new to crochet cabling.  It’s very simple to make and is a great way to get comfortable with post stitches (which is what makes the cabling pop). I also used a very similar cable pattern for that cozy as I did this mug with the intention of the cozy being sort of a beginners swatch that you can actually use!

Once you’re comfortable with cable stitches, this beanie will be a cinch to work up and you’re guaranteed to get compliments on how complex it looks.  Honestly, the most difficult part about this pattern for me was coming up with a name. 😛 Shout out to my mother and sisters for helping me with this! 

The most helpful pointer I can give about making this hat (or any other pattern that switches between regular stitches and post stitches) is to look at your work in sections.  It can be very easy to accidentally add in extra stitches when going from post stitches to regular stitches if you are not paying attention. Yes- I speak from experience. haha!

For this pattern I made sure that each braided cable had 9 post stitches, followed by 2 double crochets before starting my simple overlapping cables (each consisting of 2 post stitches) with 2 double crochets in between each cable section.  fullsizeoutput_c1b

To make the slouchy I started off with a basic ribbing, where I worked in the back loops only.  Once I had the length I wanted, I fastened off and whip stitched the ends together to form a circle.


Once the ribbing was complete, I started working double crochets around the top of the ribbing.  I had previously devised that the cable design I wanted to use (1 three strand braided cable for every 2 simple overlapping cables with 2 dc in-between each) would require me to work in multiples of 19.  I decided on repeating my cable design a total of 4 times requiring me to work 76 stitches around the top.

working a post stitch vs a regular stitch

Once the initial stitches were formed, the fun of cabling began! To start the cables, I worked front post double crochets into the stitches that would later become my cables.  If you made my Easy Cabled Mug Cozy, or any other cable pattern worked in a row (vs worked in the round) then this will look a little different to you.  Since you will not be turning your work, all of your even rows will be worked in front post double crochets (instead of back post double crochets).

Working the even rows of your simple overlap cable will look a little something like this:


All of the odd rows will be working the overlapping section of the cables. This is the most complicated portion of crocheting cable stitches, but once you get the hang of it, it’s really quite easy.

Skipping stitches and then going back and working them later is how you will achieve the overlap of the cables.  The simple overlapping cables is the same step each time.  You will skip one, then front post double crochet in the next.  To finish the overlapping portion, you will work a front post double crochet into the skipped stitch.


The braided cable is a little more complex, in that you will be repeating 3 steps instead of just 2.  For the first step, you will skip 3 stitches and front post treble crochet 3.  When you go back to work the skipped stitches you will work in front of the post stitches you just made. The last 3 stitches of the braid in this step are front post double crochets.


The second step of the braided cable is fairly easy, consisting of just 9 front post double crochets.

The third step can be the most challenging.  You will work 3 front post double crochets, skip the next 3 and front post treble crochet 3.  However, when you go back to work in the skipped stitches, you will be working behind your last 3 (instead of in front as in step 1).


At the end of each round, I slip stitched into the first double crochet of my previous round (instead of into the chain 2).  I then chained 2 and worked my first double crochet of the next round into the same stitch I slip stitched into.  This will create a straight seam that is invisible to see.


From here, it’s just a simple matter of repeating the rounds until you have achieved the height you want.  The more rounds you repeat, the more slouch you will get. You will notice that the pattern calls for 1-2 skeins of yarn; I ended up using just over 1 skein of yarn but you could certainly get by with only using one if you made a shorter slouchy.

Once the height you want is achieved, you will fasten off leaving a long tail.  You will use that tail to weave in at out around the top of your beanie to close the top. Once the top is closed, slip stitch into place and attach your pom pom.

I am over the moon with how cute this Murphy Slouchy turned out, and I can’t wait to get your feedback on it!


If you make your own version, don’t forget to send me a picture or post about it in the comment section below!

And as always…. Happy Crocheting!

What you’ll need

1 6.00mm crochet hook

1-2 skeins of medium weight (4) yarn- approximately 263 yards or 148 grams

1 faux fur pom pom

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Completed Measurements

Around the rim= 20″

Around the cabling= 22″

Height without pom pom= 10.5″


15 dc sts= 4″

10 rows= 4″

Abbreviations used for this pattern

ch= chain

sc= single crochet

blo= back loops only

dc= double crochet

sl st= slip stitch

fpdc= front post double crochet

sk = skip

st(s)= stitch(es)

fptc= front post treble crochet

Special Stitches

front post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook behind post (from front to back), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops

front post treble crochet: yarn over twice, insert hook behind post (from front to back), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops

Pattern For the Ribbing

Foundation: chain 8

Row 1: work 7 sc in blo, turn

Row 2-59: ch 1, work 7 sc in blo, turn

Row 60: ch 1, work 7 sc in blo, fasten off.

Whip stitch ends together to form a circle.

Pattern For the Hat:

* Please note that this portion is worked in joined rounds (vs continuous rounds)*

Attach yarn to top of ribbing

Round 1: ch 2 and dc 76 sts into top of ribbing evenly spaced around, sl st into 1st dc (you will want to increase once roughly every 4 gap spaces around to obtain the additional 16 stitches).

Round 2: ch 2, *dc, fpdc 2, dc 2, fpdc 9, dc 2, fpdc 2, dc*, repeat from * three more times, sl st into 1st dc.

Round 3: ch 2, *dc, sk 1 st, fpdc into next, fpdc in front into sk st, dc 2, sk 3 sts, fptc 3, fptc in front into 3 sk sts, fpdc 3, dc 2, sk 1 st, fpdc into next, fpdc into sk st, dc*, repeat from * three more times, sl st into top of 1st dc.

Round 4: ch 2, *dc, fpdc 2, dc 2, fpdc 9, dc 2, fpdc 2, dc*, repeat from * three more times, sl st into 1st dc.

Round 5: ch 2, *dc, sk 1, fpdc, fpdc in front into sk st, dc 2, fpdc 3, sk 3, fptc 3, fptc behind into 3 sk sts, dc 2, sk 1 fpdc, fpdc in front into sk st, dc*, repeat from * three more times, sl st into 1st dc


Round 6- 24: repeat rows 2-5 (you will end on a row 4), fasten off leaving long tail


Weave tail round top of hat in between stitches, pull tight and sl st to secure.  Trim off remaining tail and weave in ends.  Fasten pom pom to the top.

And there you have it!  Your very own Murphy Slouchy Beanie.

The Murphy Slouch- Pinterest 2.jpg

Murphy Slouchy Free Crochet Pattern.jpg

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  • I love this! How can I adjust the pattern for a toddler or child?

    • Thanks so much Jessica! I don’t currently have a pattern available for a toddler or child size in this beanie. 🙁 you could try to adjust the size yourself by removing some of the cabling repeats and decreasing the amount of rounds worked. I will probably come out with a pattern for exact sizing within the next 2-3 months.

  • Fantastic post

    • Thanks so much! 🙂

  • Somehow I am coming up with only 17 stitches on row 2. Should I be doing fptc x3 (as opposed to only the 1 as written)after skipping 3 stitches?

    • Hey Sandra! Thanks for your question, I believe you’re referring to round 3? My apologies, the pattern should read, “sk 3, fptc in front into 3 sk sts”. There was an extra fpdc mentioned that I have removed. But yes, you would work 3 fptc total into those 3 skipped stitches. Hope this helps! 😊

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