Rhombus Pop Beanie- Free Pattern
About The Pattern
Below you will find the free version of this fun color work beanie pattern, as well as some additional tools to help you make it.
If you’d rather have a pre-color coded and printable version of this pattern with all the same pictures, you can purchase the inexpensive PDF from our Etsy and Ravelry shops. In addition to this PDF being a little easier to follow, 50% of all proceeds are donated to eradicating modern day slavery.
This pattern is an advanced-beginner/intermediate level pattern due to the stranded color work technique used to make those beautiful diamonds. Other then that, it’s a pretty straight forward bottom-up style beanie worked in simple stitches that offer a beautiful knitted look.
About The Fit
So, I’ve graded this bad boy in 5 sizes from baby- large adult. But here’s the catch: the size names may not be completely accurate. I graded all sizes based on CYC standards with an approximate 1-2″ negative ease for the brim circumference and the beanie portion to size. HOWEVER, I had a few testers mention that the “Toddler size” was too tight on their 2 year old. Or that the “Large Adult” size was too large, etc… But since the color work is created over a series of 8 stitches, I wasn’t able to grade this one for more in-between sizes (such as 6-9 month or tween). All that to say- I recommend trying to go off the head circumference and not the size title. This beanie will offer about 1-2″ of give in the ribbing/brim section and more or less on the beanie section, depending on how tight you crochet over the color change. If you aren’t able to take head circumference measurement (maybe you’re awesome and want to make a boat load of these as gifts 😉), the size names should get you in the ball park.
I go into more detail about the size differences in the Pattern Notes section, and have even more information for comprehensive sizing on that fabulous PDF I mentioned above if you want to try and make a size not graded in this pattern. 😬
About The Yarn
I used a muted brown and white color combo of Simply Wool in worsted by WeCrochet to make mine, but our testers came up with the most stunning color combinations and used a variety of alternate worsted weight yarns to make theirs, all with great success. Make sure you’re following us on Instagram to check out some of their versions!
Some of the best yarn substitutions used included: Caron’s Simply Soft, Red Heart’s Soft, Lion Brand’s Heartland or Vanna’s Choice and WeCrochet’s Brava or Wool of the Andes. Looking to use a completely different yarn? I say go for it- just make sure you meet gauge before you begin for the most accurately sized beanie.
Before You Begin
The ribbing on this pattern is made in half double crochet slip stitches worked into the back loop only which offers a fantastic faux knit look and works up faster than the more popularly used sc sl st in blo. If you’ve never worked this technique before, hop on over to our Sequoia slouch beanie blog post where we have a picture and video tutorial on working this technique.
The trickiest part of this pattern is the color work. To have a seamless color change transition, it’s important that you switch to your new color in the last yarn over and pull up of the stitch before the new color behinds.
If this is your first time working color work, or fair-isle style (aka stranded) color work in particular, then you may find it helpful to check out a bit of our Snowfall Raglan video tutorial which uses the same style of color work.
I have included that video in this post and recommend skipping ahead to about 16:15 in to see the color changes worked. You’ll notice some differences between styles as I worked front loop only for that sweater, and back loop only for this pattern. As well as that pattern is worked in turning rounds, and this is not. But hopefully it’s enough to give you a pretty good grasp on changing colors and carrying the unused yarn behind your work.
Once done, the inside of your beanie should look something like this
After the main color work is complete, you will move to a decrease section where you’ll continue to speckle some color work and close the top up by slowly decreasing and then cinching the very top closed.
The Free Pattern
|What You Need|
|5 mm (US H) crochet hook (or hook to obtain ribbing gauge)|
6.5 mm (US K) crochet hook (or hook to obtain beanie gauge)
1 skein of worsted weight (#4) yarn in A (I used WeCrochet’s Simply Wool in brown) approximately 60, 75, 110, 140, 160 yards
1 skein of worsted weight (#4) yarn in B (I used WeCrochet’s Simply Wool in white) approximately 30, 33, 35, 37, 40 yards
Pom pom (optional)
|Baby 12.25″ brim circumference, 6″ tall|
Toddler 15″ brim circumference, 7″ tall
Child 17.25″ brim circumference, 8″ tall
Small Adult 19.5″ brim circumference, 10″ tall
Large Adult 22.25” brim circumference, 10.5” tall
|Ribbing Gauge Used (with 5mm hook)|
|5 hdc sl st= 1”|
13 rows= 4”
|Beanie Gauge Used (with 6.5mm hook)|
|12 sc blo in the round= 4”|
15 rounds= 4”
|A= Main color yarn (I used Brown)|
B= Contrasting color yarn (I used white)
blo= back loops only
dec= decrease (single crochet 2 together in the back loop only)
p/u= pick up
sc= single crochet
sl st= slip stitch
|Special Stitches Used|
|hdc sl st = yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch/loop and pull up a loop. |
Pull loop through 2 loops on hook.
|This pattern uses US standards|
This is an advanced beginner level pattern, experience working crochet color work will be beneficial.
This pattern is written in the baby size with (toddler, child, small adult and large adult) sizes following in parentheses.
Numbers that follow at the end of the instructions of each round in parentheses indicate the final stitch count for that round. These will not be included on rounds where the stitch count does not change from the previous round.
Due to the stitch repeats needed for the color work, there is an approximate 2.6” difference between each size. Measuring head circumference with a 2” negative ease is the best way to choose the right size for you before proceeding with this pattern (rather than relying on the size descriptions).
The ch(s) at the start of each row/round do not count as a stitch(s).
The brim pattern will be worked back and forth in turning rows, the beanie pattern and decrease rounds will be worked in joined rounds.
When changing colors, you will change to the new color (and drop the working color) in the last yarn over of the stitch before the new color begins.
To work the color changes on this pattern, you will use a fair-isle (or stranded) style color work, where you will carry the unused color behind the work. I recommend “picking up floats” when working more than 4 stitches in the same color by working the unused color behind the working stitch.
To allow for the most stretch around the color work section, try to use a looser tension and do not pull your floats too tight.
Color work instructions will be written with the number of stitches followed by which color those stitches will be worked in (i.e. the instructions: “1A, 2B” indicate that you will work 1 stitch in A followed by 2 stitches in B).
Pattern for the Ribbing
Foundation: Using 5mm hook, in A, ch 7 (10,10,12,12)
Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc sl st across, turn. (5, 8, 8, 10, 10)
Row 2-39 (47, 55, 63, 71): ch 2, hdc sl st in blo, turn.
Rotate the brim 90º and work a sl st into each stitch of row 39 (47, 55, 63, 71) to each stitch of the foundation row, joining the brim and creating a cylinder. (This will add an additional row for when you pick up the foundation of the Beanie Pattern.)
This section will be worked with the 6.5 mm hook
Foundation: [continuing in A] ch 1, with the Ribbing right side out, p/u a sc st in each row of the ribbing around. (40, 48, 56, 64, 72)
We will now begin the color work of the beanie. I have included the written instructions in the pattern, but you can alternately sc in the blo following the graph below by repeating column 1-8 around each round, through round 13.
Round 1: sl st to 1st st, switch to B and ch 1, sc blo around working *1B, 7A*, repeat from * to * around. (40, 48, 56, 64, 72)
Round 2: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *1A, 1B, 5A, 1B *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 3: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *2A, 1B, 3A, 1B, 1A *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 4: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *1A, 1B, 2A, 1B, 2A, 1B*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 5: sl st to 1st st, switch to B and ch 1, sc blo around working *1B, 2A, 3B, 2A*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 6: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *2A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 7: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *1A, 2B, 3A, 2B*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 8: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *2A, 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 9: sl st to 1st st, switch to B and ch 1, sc blo around working *1B, 2A, 3B, 2A*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 10: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *1A, 1B, 2A, 1B, 2A, 1B *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 11: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *2A, 1B, 3A, 1B, 1A *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 12: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *1A, 1B, 5A, 1B *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 13: sl st to 1st st, switch to B and ch 1, sc blo around working *1B, 7A *, repeat from * to * around.
For Baby Size and Toddler Size skip to “Decreasing Pattern”
Round 14: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around in A.
Round 15: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *3A, 1B, 4A *, repeat from * to * around.
Round 16: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around in A.
Round 17: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *7A, 1B *, repeat from * to * around.
For Child Size skip to “Decreasing Pattern”
Round 18- (21, 25): repeat rounds 14 -17.
[We will now begin to close our beanie up by working a series of decreasing rounds, continued from the “Beanie Pattern” section.]
Round 1: in A, sl st to 1st st, ch 1, *sc blo 6, dec*, repeat from * to * around. (35, 42, 49, 56, 63)
Round 2: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working 3A, 1B, *6A, 1B*, repeat from * to * around until 3 sts remain, 3A.
Round 3: in A, sl st to 1st st, ch 1, *sc blo 5, dec*, repeat from * to * around. (30, 36, 42, 48, 54)
Round 4: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, sc blo around working *5A, 1B*, repeat from * to * around.
Round 5: in A, sl st to 1st st, ch 1, *sc blo 4, dec*, repeat from * to * around. (25, 30, 34, 40, 45)
For Baby Size, skip to Round 8
Round 6: sl st to 1st st, ch 1, *sc blo 2, dec*, repeat from * to * around until 3 sts remain, sc blo 3. (22, 26, 30, 34)
For Toddler Size and Child Size skip to Round 8
Round 7: in A, sl st to 1st st, ch 1, *sc blo 1, dec*, repeat from * to * around. (20, 23)
Round 8: In A, sl st to 1st st, ch 1, dec around, if a st remains, sc into it. (13, 11, 13, 10, 12)
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Use the tail to weave in and out around stitches of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the hat. Tie off and attach pom pom to the top if using.