New Bloom Crop Top- Free Pattern
About This Post
A few weeks back, I posed a question in my Instagram stories asking which of our new patterns everyone wanted released first (I was struggling between releasing this top, a baby Hippo Teething Rattle and the Not Your Granny’s Tee). The New Bloom Crop was by and large the winner, so I am so excited to be able to share that pattern with you today! And don’t worry if you voted for one of the other patterns- they’re in the pipelines and will be coming to the blog very soon!
If you have never worked a top-down raglan style top before, I have written a step-by-step blog post with pictures to help you navigate this pattern and you can find that here. If you are interested in the inexpensive, ad-free, printable PDF with a stitch graph for the yoke, you will be able to purchase that from our Etsy or Ravelry shops.
The Design & Yarn
This top is like the cream of the crop in garment designs! It’s got texture. It’s got simplicity. The length for the sleeves and body is completely customizable and probably best of all; it’s completely seamless! I just love this top, all of its subtle details so much and cannot wait to see your version of it! (and if you do make one, make sure you share with me on Instagram, there is nothing that brings me more joy in this business!)
This top is made in a DK weight, cotton based yarn, specifically with the warm weather in mind. I used Viscose & Cotton Baby Yarn by Darn Good Yarn and I cannot recommend it enough! This yarn is a dream to work with, and you can feel good about using it, knowing that it was ethically sourced and made!
If you cannot get your hands on the Viscose & Cotton Baby yarn, some of our testers used Lion Brand’s CoBoo and TruBoo with great success.
I also love the drape that a finer weight yarn offers, which I think makes for amazing garments. If you choose to work with a heavier weight yarn (such as worsted weight), you will most likely need to go up a hook size to accommodate for more of that drape and a less stiff fabric, but this will of course alter the gauge and sizing so be prepared for a top that is slightly larger than indicated in this pattern.
The Fit
As I mentioned above, this top is very customizable in the length of the body and sleeves portion. One would simply need to add more rounds before the ribbing to make it longer.
As for the original design; it is meant to be a fitted crop top (with the bottom hemline resting right above the waistline). I know not everyone feels comfortable in a crop top, and that was one of the main reasons I designed this as a top-down garment. I feel strongly that if you are taking the time to make your own clothing, it should be something you feel comfortable in and confident wearing!
It should also be noted that since this is a fitted top, the bust offers a 0-1″ positive ease, meaning that the bust and arms do not offer a lot of give. If you are in between sizes, I would suggest making the larger of two sizes to ensure adequate fit. I have also included helpful tips to ensuring a proper fit on our blog post, so please check that out for more info.
The Pattern
| What You Need |
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| Approximate Completed Measurements |
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| Gauge Used |
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17 stitches in suzette st pattern = 4” 16 rows in suzette st pattern= 4” |
| Collar Gauge Used |
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18 hdc in blo sts= 4” 10 rows of hdc in blo= 3.75” |
| Abbreviations Used |
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ch= chain hdc= half double crochet blo= back loop only p/u= pick up [stitch(es)] sc= single crochet sk= skip [stitch] ss= slip stitch dc= double crochet ch2sp= chain 2 space sm= stitch marker |
| Special Stitches |
| Suzette Stitch= *(sc, dc) in first sc, sk 1, repeat from * around in the first round. *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk 1, repeat from * around in the second round. Repeat 2 rounds for pattern. |
| Pattern Notes |
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| Pattern Composition |
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This is a seamless, top-down style pattern. You will work in the following order: You will start with the collar which will be joined to create a cylinder that will have button holes located on the top of the left shoulder. You will pick up the foundation for the yoke directly onto the collar. For “Splitting the Yoke”, you will start by adding the left sleeve and left sleeve cuff. From here you will add the right sleeve with cuff Last is adding length for the body, finishing by adding the body ribbing pattern directly to the bottom. |
| For Comprehensive Sizing |
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Collar Pattern
Foundation: ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 14, 14, 14, 14)
Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in blo across, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12)
Row 2-52 (56, 58, 58, 60, 65, 71, 78, 80): ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in blo 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10), hdc in last, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12)
Row 53 (57, 59, 59, 61, 66, 72, 79, 81): ch 2, hdc in each across, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12)
Row 54 (58, 60, 60, 62, 67, 73, 80, 82): ch 1, sc 1( 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2), ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2( 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), turn (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8)
Row 55 (59, 61, 61, 63, 68, 74, 81, 83) & 56 (60, 62, 62, 64, 69, 75, 82, 84): ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in blo 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10), hdc in last, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12)
Do NOT fasten off
(continuing from “Collar Pattern”): lay the last 4 rows on top of the opposite side of the collar so that row 52 (56, 58, 58, 60, 65, 71, 78, 80) is directly on top of the foundation and forming a circle. Place sm between the two overlapping rows to keep them joined as you pick up the foundation for the yoke.
Yoke Pattern
Foundation: ch 1, and start working along the long side of the collar, working into the overlapping rows, towards the sm first. P/u 2 sc in each row around. (104 112, 116, 116, 120, 130, 142, 156, 160)
Place sm in the 13th (13th, 13th, 13th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 15th, 13th) st from starting st, place another sm in the 36th (40th, 42nd, 44th, 48th, 49th, 53rd, 58th, 62nd) st away from that, place another sm in the 16th (16th, 16th, 14th, 12th, 16th, 18th, 20th, 18th) st away from that and place another sm in the 36th (40th, 42nd, 44th, 48th, 49th, 53rd, 58th, 62nd) away from that.
((sm placed in the:
13th (13th, 13th, 13th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 15th, 13th),
49th (53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th, 62nd, 68th, 73rd, 75th),
65th (69th, 71st, 71st, 71st, 78th, 86th, 93rd, 93rd),
101st (109th, 113th, 115th, 119th, 127th, 139th, 151st, 155th) sts))
Round 1: *(sc, dc) in sc, sk 1, repeat from * to 1st sm, *(sc, ch2, dc) in st with sm, sk 1, (sc, dc) in next st, sk 1, repeat from * around (104, 112, 116, 116, 120, 130, 142, 156, 160)
Round 2: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp. *(dc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, (dc, sc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (112, 120, 124, 124, 128, 138, 150, 164, 168)
Round 3: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp, *(sc, ch2, dc) in ch2sp, (sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (120, 128, 132, 132, 136, 146, 158, 172, 176)
Round 4-16 (18, 20, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36): repeat rounds 2&3 (224, 248, 268, 300, 320, 362, 390, 420, 440)
Splitting The Yoke
Fold yoke in half so that the button holes are located at the top and the longest parts of the yoke are located towards the bottom.
Round 1: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp, sc in ch2sp, dc in ch2sp sp opposite, ((sk 178 (198, 214, 240, 258, 288, 310, 334, 352) sts between ch 2 sps), *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around to first st. Left sleeve started- by button hole (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Left Sleeve Pattern (continued from “Splitting The Yoke”)
Round 1: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Round 2: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Round 3- 4 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): repeat rounds 1&2 (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Sleeve Cuff Pattern”
Right Sleeve Pattern
Rotate work so that the backside of the other short end of your yoke is facing you.
Foundation: P/u yarn in sc to the right of ch2sp, (sc, dc) into sc, sk dc, sc into ch2sp, dc into ch2sp opposite, *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Round 1: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Round 2: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Round 3- 4 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): repeat rounds 1&2 (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)
Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Sleeve Cuff Pattern”
Sleeve Cuff Pattern
Foundation: ch 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11)
Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in blo across, ss into 2 sts of sleeve, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)
Row 2: sc in blo 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9, 9), sc in last, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)
Row 3: ch 1, sc in 1st, sc in blo 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9, 9), ss into 2 sts of sleeve, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)
Row 4-47 (51, 55, 61, 63, 75, 81, 87, 89): repeat rows 2&3 around the entirety of the sleeve opening (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)
Row 48( 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90): join foundation to row 47 (51, 55, 61, 63, 75, 81, 87, 89), ss into each stitch across, joining both rows together. Fo and weave in ends. (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)
Body Pattern
Foundation: p/u yarn in sc to the left of bottom of left sleeve (where the ch 2 sps joined for “splitting the yoke”), *(sc, dc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * to the right sleeve. Sc into back side of ch2sp, dc into back side of next ch2sp, *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * to the left sleeve, sc into back side of ch2sp, dc into back side of next ch2sp (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)
Round 2: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss in last dc (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)
Round 3: *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)
Round 4-44 (44, 43, 40, 42, 34, 32, 32, 30): repeat rounds 2&3 (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)
Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Body Ribbing Pattern”
Body Ribbing Pattern
Foundation: ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 14, 14, 14, 14)
Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in blo across, ss into 2 sts of body, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13)
Row 2: sc in blo 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12), sc in last, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13)
Row 3: ch 1, sc in 1st, sc in blo 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12), ss into 2 sts of body, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13)
Row 4-135 (151, 163, 183, 199, 217, 233, 251, 267): repeat rows 2&3 around the entirety of the body opening (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13)
Row 136 (152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268): join foundation to row 135 (151, 163, 183, 199, 217, 233, 251, 267), ss into each stitch across, joining both rows together. Fo and weave in ends. (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13)
Adding Buttons
Using needle and thread, attach the ½” buttons directly beneath each button hole, making sure they fit through the holes snuggly but with ease.
Thank you for sharing this pattern!
Question for row 58(small) of collar, are the numbers correct? I keep getting 5 sts instead of 7. And is a ‘Sk 2 sts’ missing after the 2nd ch-2?
Hi Shanese,
I’m so happy you like this pattern! You’re absolutely right! This was as typo missed on our end, and I apologize for the confusion! Thanks so much for bringing it to my attention, I’m going in to correct it now. 🙂
Sure thing, no problem! Loving the texture of this stitch~😁
Ooh is the count for Row 59 also correct? Are we to do 1 hdc into the ch-2 spaces of the previous row to get 7 total sts or 2 hdc in the ch-2 spaces to get 9 total sts?
For row 59 you’ll be working a hdc into each of the chs (or you could work the 2 hdc into the ch-2 space as well), for a total of 9 sts. 😀 And isn’t the texture just dreamy! It’s one of my favorites!