Star Spangled Clutch- Free Pattern

About The Design

About two years ago I made the Star Spangled Beach Tote.  It is still one of my favorite makes today, and I use it all the time, especially during the summer as it works so well to carry all the water gear in! 

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Like the Start Spangled Beach Tote, this clutch features the Star Stitch and half double crochets with some color stripes.  I also added a bit more pizzaz to mine by adding some short fringe around the flap of the clutch and just love the extra detail it adds!

*The free pattern for this tote is located at the bottom of this post, but if you’d prefer an ad-free, printable colored PDF version of this pattern, you can purchase it from our Etsy shop here or our Ravelry shop here.  

About The Yarn

I’ve had a bit of Lion Brand’s Fast Track Yarn left over since making the tote and last year came up with the idea of turning it into a matching clutch.  But I didn’t have a chance to design it until now.  

This yarn is in the “tape yarn” category as it is wide and flat (like tape). The particular yarn I used is in the weight 6 category, and has since been discontinued by Lion Brand Yarn. They replaced it with their Rewind yarn which is in the weight 5 category, so if you choose to use that make sure you can either meet gauge first, or you will need to increase the stitch count for each row by multiples of 2 to get the same size clutch (you may also need to add some rows of half double crochets to achieve height).

That all being said, there are other extra bulky weight tape yarns on the market, and a quick Google search will show you your best options out there.

About the Pattern

This pattern is easy enough to make, but experience in working the Star Stitch and the join-as-you-go method will also help. But even without experience with those, I have created a video tutorial for this pattern that I hope you find helpful!

This pattern starts at what will become the front portion of your pocket (located directly under the flap) with an easy row of single crochet stitches. From here you will begin to alternate rows of Star Stitches and half double crochet stitches, changing colors as you go. The trickiest part about this portion is paying attention to which side of the work you’re on, because there are a few times that rather then turning your work, you will fasten off and pick up your yarn at the start of the last row worked staying on the same side of your work. This is because the Star Stitch looks different on the wrong side, so it always needs to be worked on the right side of your work.

At the bottom of the pocket pattern will be a row of slip stitches worked into the front loops only. This row will help create a natural fold in your clutch (pretty cool, right?!?). After working a row of single crochets, you’ll work one final row of slip stitches. To complete the pocket from here, all you need to do is seam up the sides.

Once your pocket is complete, you will begin to work your half oval flap directly onto the pocket, joining to that last row of slip stitches as you go. These slip stitches will have pushed your stitches forward so that there is another natural fold in your work for the flap. This flap pattern is similar to the pocket pattern in alternating rows of star stitches and half double crochets, but since it is worked as a half oval, you will be increasing as you go so that it will lay flat once complete.

After finishing the flap pattern, your clutch is officially complete. But feel free to add some fringe details, as I have, for a more boho look. The fringe I used was made by adding 2 short strands of my main color yarn into every other stitch of my flap pattern. Trim the fringe for an even look, and that’ all there is to it!

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The Pattern

What You Need 

  • 2 skeins Extra Bulky Tape yarn (approximately 95 yards total, about 40 yards in MC and 55 yards in second color)- I used Lion Brand’s Fast Track in Denim and White
  • 8 MM (US L) crochet hook (or hook to obtain gauge) 
  • embroidery/ darning needle (for weaving in ends)
  • scissors

Approximate Completed Measurements 

8″ wide

4.5” deep

 

Gauge Used

10 hdc sts= 4″

6 rows of alternating hdc and star stitch= 4″

 

Abbreviations Used 

ch= chain

sc= single crochet 

hdc=half double crochet

WS= wrong side [of work]

RS= right side [of work]

sts= stitch(s)

fo= fasten off

yo= yarn over

pu= pull up/ pick up

MC= main color 

lp(s)= loop(s) 

sk= skip (st)

rep= repeat 

sl st= slip stitch 

flo= front loop only

 

Special Stitches Used

Star Stitch:  ch 3, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pu (2 loops on hook), insert into 3rd ch from hook, yo, pu (3 loops on hook), insert into the same st as your turning ch, yo and pu (4 loops on hook), insert into next st, yo and pu (5 loops on hook), insert into next st, yo and pu (6 loops on hook), yo pull through all 6 loops, yo and ch 1, creating the “eye” of the star (1 loop on hook: first star created)*insert hook into “eye” of star yo, pu (2 loops on hook), insert in between last legs of the star, yo, pu (3 loops on hook), insert hook into same st as last legs, yo, pu (4 loops on hook), insert into next st, yo and pu (5 loops on hook), insert into next st, yo and pu (6 loops on your hook), yo and pull through all 6 loops, yo and ch 1* (1 loop on hook: second star created). Repeat from * to * to last ch, hdc in last (same st as the last leg of the final star) . 

 

Pattern Notes

  • This Pattern uses US standards
  • This pattern is worked back and forth in rows of half double crochets and the star stitch
  • For each color change row, you will change colors in the last yo of the last stitch of the previous row.
  • You will not turn at the end of every row.  Some rows will require you to cut your yarn and then pick up the alternate color yarn at the opposite end of the same side just worked.  Each row has been marked as the RS or WS to help track which side you are working on.
  • In foundation, the first skipped stitch does not count as a stitch. 
  • In each row following, the starting ch 1 or 2 does not count as a stitch
  • When joining the Flap Pattern to the Pocket Pattern, the sl sts at the end of each row do not count as sts.
  • The final stitch count for each row is listed in parentheses following the instructions. 
  • The Flap Pattern is worked by attaching to the last row of the Pocket Pattern by ending each row in a series of sl sts. 

Pocket Pattern

Foundation: starting in MC, ch 23

Row 1 [WS]: starting in the in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc across, switch to 2nd color, turn (22) 

Row 2 [RS]: star st across, turn (10 stars and 1 hdc) 

Row 3 [WS]: ch 2, hdc in first hdc and “eye” of first star, 2 hdc in the eye of each remaining star st across, switch to MC, turn (21) 

Row 4 [RS]: ch 2, hdc in each st across, fo (21) do not turn

Row 5-7 [attach 2nd color at the start of RS]: repeat rows 2-4

Row 8 [WS]: continue with MC, ch 1, sl st in flo of each st across, turn (21) 

Row 9 [RS]: ch 2, hdc in each st across, fo (21) do not turn

Row 10-12 [attach 2nd color at the start of RS]: repeat rows 2-4, switch to  2nd color

Row 13-14: repeat rows 2-3

Switch to 2nd color

Row 15 [RS]: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (21) 

Row 16 [WS]: ch 1, sl st in each st across, fo (21) 

Flap Pattern

Foundation [RS]: sk 9 sts

Row 1[RS]: pu 2nd color, ch 2, hdc, 3 hdc in next, hdc, sl st 2, switch to MC, turn (5)

Row 2[WS]: *2 hdc in next, hdc*, repeat from * to * across, sl st 3 (counts as ch 3 for 1st star in next row), switch to 2nd color, turn (8)

Row 3 [RS]: star st across, working last star st into 2 sl st from row 16 of pocket pattern, sl st 2, turn (6 star sts, 1 hdc)

Row 4 [WS]: sk 1st hdc, hdc 3 in the “eye” of each star across, sl st 2, switch to MC, turn (18)

Row 5[RS]: *hdc 2, 2 hdc in next*, repeat from * to * across, sl st in next, fo MC. Do NOT turn (24)

Row 6 [attach 2nd color at the start of RS]: sk 1 and star st across, working last star st into 3 sl sts from row 16 of pocket pattern, turn (13 star sts, 1 hdc)

Row 18[WS]: sk 1st hdc, 2 hdc into “eye” of first star, hdc 3 into each remaining “eye” across, sl st in last, fo. (38)

Assembly

fold your pocket in half so that row 8 is located at the bottom of your work and the flap folds over the top of the first 7 rows. 

Using a strand of yarn, and mattress stitch (or method of choice), seam together both sides of the pocket, weaving in any ends as you go. 

Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends. 

Adding Fringe 

Cut 38 pieces of 2nd color yarn approximately 4-5” long.  

Start in 1st st of row 18 of Flap Pattern

*Take 2 strands of cut yarn and fold in half, forming a loop at one end. Use your hook to pull loop through st, draw loose ends through the loop and pull tight to secure. Skip next st*

Repeat from * to * across. Trim fringe across for an even look.

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