About This Post

A few weeks back, I posed a question in my Instagram stories asking which of our new patterns everyone wanted released first (I was struggling between releasing this top, a baby Hippo Teething Rattle and the Not Your Granny’s Tee).  The New Bloom Crop was by and large the winner, so I am so excited to be able to share that pattern with you today! And don’t worry if you voted for one of the other patterns- they’re in the pipelines and will be coming to the blog very soon!

If you have never worked a top-down raglan style top before, I have written a step-by-step blog post with pictures to help you navigate this pattern and you can find that here.  If you are interested in the inexpensive, ad-free, printable PDF with a stitch graph for the yoke, you will be able to purchase that from our Etsy or Ravelry shops. 

The Design & Yarn

This top is like the cream of the crop in garment designs! It’s got texture. It’s got simplicity. The length for the sleeves and body is completely customizable and probably best of all; it’s completely seamless! I just love this top, all of its subtle details so much and cannot wait to see your version of it! (and if you do make one, make sure you share with me on Instagram, there is nothing that brings me more joy in this business!)

This top is made in a DK weight, cotton based yarn, specifically with the warm weather in mind. I used Viscose & Cotton Baby Yarn by Darn Good Yarn and I cannot recommend it enough! This yarn is a dream to work with, and you can feel good about using it, knowing that it was ethically sourced and made!

If you cannot get your hands on the Viscose & Cotton Baby yarn, some of our testers used Lion Brand’s CoBoo and TruBoo with great success.

I also love the drape that a finer weight yarn offers, which I think makes for amazing garments. If you choose to work with a heavier weight yarn (such as worsted weight), you will most likely need to go up a hook size to accommodate for more of that drape and a less stiff fabric, but this will of course alter the gauge and sizing so be prepared for a top that is slightly larger than indicated in this pattern.

The Fit

As I mentioned above, this top is very customizable in the length of the body and sleeves portion. One would simply need to add more rounds before the ribbing to make it longer.

As for the original design; it is meant to be a fitted crop top (with the bottom hemline resting right above the waistline). I know not everyone feels comfortable in a crop top, and that was one of the main reasons I designed this as a top-down garment. I feel strongly that if you are taking the time to make your own clothing, it should be something you feel comfortable in and confident wearing!

It should also be noted that since this is a fitted top, the bust offers a 0-1″ positive ease, meaning that the bust and arms do not offer a lot of give. If you are in between sizes, I would suggest making the larger of two sizes to ensure adequate fit. I have also included helpful tips to ensuring a proper fit on our blog post, so please check that out for more info.

The Pattern

What You Need 
  • 4.0 mm (US G) crochet hook (or hook to meet gauge)
  • 4 (4,4,5,5,6,6,7,7) skeins of Darn Good Yarn’s Viscose and Cotton Baby Yarn or comparable DK weight yarn (approximately 770, 890, 960, 1065, 1195, 1245, 1330, 1510, 1555 yards)
  • Embroidery or darning needle
  • Scissors 
  • 2 ½” buttons

Approximate Completed Measurements 

Gauge Used

17 stitches in suzette st pattern = 4”

16 rows in suzette st pattern= 4” 

Collar Gauge Used

18 hdc in blo sts= 4”

10 rows of hdc in blo= 3.75” 

Abbreviations Used 

ch= chain

hdc= half double crochet

blo= back loop only 

p/u= pick up [stitch(es)]

sc= single crochet 

sk= skip [stitch]

ss= slip stitch

dc= double crochet 

ch2sp= chain 2 space 

sm= stitch marker 

Special Stitches

Suzette Stitch= *(sc, dc) in first sc, sk 1, repeat from * around in the first round. 

*(dc, sc) in first sc, sk 1, repeat from * around in the second round. 

Repeat 2 rounds for pattern. 

Pattern Notes
  • This pattern is written in US standard size and abbreviations
  • This top is written to fit to size, with a 0- 1”positive ease on the bust, and 1-2” positive ease on the sleeves. 
  • The pattern is written in x-small size with (small, medium, large, x-large, 2x-large, 3x-large, 4x-large and 5x-large) sizes to follow in parentheses.  
  • The Yoke, body, and sleeve patterns are all worked in the round. I recommend keeping a sm in the starting st of each round as you go for these portions. 
  • The collar and ribbing patterns are worked back and forth in rows with turning chs at the beginning of each row.  These ch sts do not count as a stitch. 
  • The final stitch count for each row/round are listed in parentheses following the instructions. These do not include the ch2 sps in the yoke rounds. 
  • I HIGHLY recommend placing stitch markers in the 4 “ch2” corners of the yoke and moving down each row.  
  • The majority of this pattern is written in the suzette stitch.  To achieve this look, you will need to make sure that you are always (unless otherwise noted) working the 2 stitches into the single crochet from the previous round. 
  • The ribbing on the sleeves and body is added as you go, rather than being a separate piece attached later. To work this technique, I recommend this tutorial by TL Yarn Crafts found here. 

Pattern Composition 

This is a seamless, top-down style pattern. 

You will work in the following order: You will start with the collar which will be joined to create a cylinder that will have button holes located on the top of the left shoulder. You will pick up the foundation for the yoke directly onto the collarFor “Splitting the Yoke”, you will start by adding the left sleeve and left sleeve cuffFrom here you will add the right sleeve with cuff Last is adding length for the body, finishing by adding the body ribbing pattern directly to the bottom. 

For Comprehensive Sizing
  • Since this top is worked from the top- down; you can easily adjust the length of any portion of the tee.  
  • To add length to the body, you will simply work additional rows of the Suzette stitch until the desired length is acquired before adding the ribbing.   
  • To add or decrease length to the sleeves, simply add or decrease rounds of the Suzette stitch repeats before adding the ribbing.  
  • To add or decrease width to the bust and arms- you will need to adjust the yoke by increasing or decreasing the amount of rows before “splitting the yoke”.  
  • To increase or decrease the armhole depth, you will need to add or decrease rounds to the yoke pattern.  Please note that by doing so, you will also alter the final count when splitting the yoke and the final fit for the bust and sleeve measurements. 

Collar Pattern

Foundation: ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 14, 14, 14, 14) 

Row 1: starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in blo across, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12) 

Row 2-52 (56, 58, 58, 60, 65, 71, 78, 80): ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in blo 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10), hdc in last, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12) 

Row 53 (57, 59, 59, 61, 66, 72, 79, 81): ch 2, hdc  in each across, turn (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12) 

Row 54 (58, 60, 60, 62, 67, 73, 80, 82): ch 1, sc 1( 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2), ch 2, sk 2, sc 2, ch 2, sc 2( 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)

Row 55 (59, 61, 61, 63, 68, 74, 81, 83) &  56 (60, 62, 62, 64,  69, 75, 82, 84): ch 2, hdc in 1st, hdc in blo 7 (7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10), hdc in last, turn  (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12) 

Do NOT fasten off

(continuing from “Collar Pattern”): lay the last 4 rows on top of the opposite side of the collar so that row 52 (56, 58, 58, 60, 65, 71, 78, 80)  is directly on top of the foundation and forming a circle.  Place sm between the two overlapping rows to keep them joined as you pick up the foundation for the yoke. 

Yoke Pattern 

Foundation: ch 1, and start working along the long side of the collar, working into the overlapping rows, towards the sm first.  P/u 2 sc in each row around. (104 112, 116, 116, 120, 130, 142, 156, 160)

Place sm in the 13th (13th, 13th, 13th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 15th, 13th) st from starting st, place another sm in the 36th (40th, 42nd, 44th, 48th, 49th, 53rd, 58th, 62nd) st away from that, place another sm in the 16th (16th, 16th, 14th, 12th, 16th, 18th, 20th, 18th) st away from that and place another sm in the 36th (40th, 42nd, 44th, 48th, 49th, 53rd, 58th, 62nd) away from that.

((sm placed in the: 

13th (13th, 13th, 13th, 11th, 13th, 15th, 15th, 13th), 

49th (53rd, 55th, 57th, 59th, 62nd, 68th, 73rd, 75th), 

65th (69th, 71st, 71st, 71st, 78th, 86th, 93rd, 93rd), 

101st (109th, 113th, 115th, 119th, 127th, 139th, 151st, 155th) sts))

Round 1: *(sc, dc) in sc, sk 1, repeat from * to 1st sm, *(sc, ch2, dc) in st with sm, sk 1, (sc, dc) in next st, sk 1,  repeat from * around (104, 112, 116, 116, 120, 130, 142, 156, 160)

Round 2: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp.  *(dc, ch2, sc) in ch2sp, (dc, sc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (112, 120, 124, 124, 128, 138, 150, 164, 168)

Round 3: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp, *(sc, ch2, dc) in ch2sp, (sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc,  repeat from * around (120, 128, 132, 132, 136, 146, 158, 172, 176)

Round 4-16 (18, 20, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, 36): repeat rounds 2&3 (224, 248, 268, 300, 320, 362, 390, 420, 440)

Splitting The Yoke 

Fold yoke in half so that the button holes are located at the top and the longest parts of the yoke are located towards the bottom. 

Round 1: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * to ch2sp, sc in ch2sp, dc in ch2sp sp opposite, ((sk 178 (198, 214, 240, 258, 288, 310, 334, 352) sts between ch 2 sps), *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around to first st. Left sleeve started- by button hole (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Left Sleeve Pattern (continued from “Splitting The Yoke”)

Round 1: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Round 2: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Round 3- 4 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): repeat rounds 1&2 (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Sleeve Cuff Pattern” 

Right Sleeve Pattern

Rotate work so that the backside of the other short end of your yoke is facing you. 

Foundation: P/u yarn in sc to the right of ch2sp, (sc, dc) into sc, sk dc, sc into ch2sp, dc into ch2sp opposite, *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Round 1: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss into last dc (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Round 2: sk 1st dc, *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Round 3- 4 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11): repeat rounds 1&2 (48, 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90)

Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Sleeve Cuff Pattern” 

Sleeve Cuff Pattern

Foundation: ch 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 11, 11, 11, 11)

Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in blo across, ss into 2 sts of sleeve, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10) 

Row 2: sc in blo  6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9, 9), sc in last, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10) 

Row 3: ch 1, sc in 1st, sc in blo  6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9, 9), ss into 2 sts of sleeve, turn (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10) 

Row 4-47 (51, 55, 61, 63, 75, 81, 87, 89): repeat rows 2&3 around the entirety of the sleeve opening (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)

Row 48( 52, 56, 62, 64, 76, 82, 88, 90): join foundation to row 47 (51, 55, 61, 63, 75, 81, 87, 89), ss into each stitch across, joining both rows together.  Fo and weave in ends. (7, 7, 7, 7, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10)

Body Pattern 

Foundation: p/u yarn in sc to the left of bottom of left sleeve (where the ch 2 sps joined for “splitting the yoke”), *(sc, dc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * to the right sleeve.  Sc into back side of ch2sp, dc into back side of next ch2sp, *(sc, dc) in next sc, sk dc, repeat from * to the left sleeve, sc into back side of ch2sp, dc into back side of next ch2sp (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)

Round 2: *(dc, sc) in first sc, sk dc, repeat from * around, ss in last dc (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)

Round 3: *(sc, dc) in sc, sk dc, repeat from * around (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)

Round 4-44 (44, 43, 40, 42, 34, 32, 32, 30): repeat rounds 2&3 (136, 152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268)

Do NOT fasten off and proceed to “Body Ribbing Pattern” 

Body Ribbing Pattern 

Foundation: ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 14, 14, 14, 14)

Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in blo across, ss into 2 sts of body, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13) 

Row 2: sc in blo  9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12), sc in last, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13) 

Row 3: ch 1, sc in 1st, sc in blo 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12, 12, 12, 12), ss into 2 sts of body, turn (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13) 

Row 4-135 (151, 163, 183, 199, 217, 233, 251, 267): repeat rows 2&3 around the entirety of the body opening (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13) 

Row 136 (152, 164, 184, 200, 218, 234, 252, 268): join foundation to row 135 (151, 163, 183, 199, 217, 233, 251, 267), ss into each stitch across, joining both rows together.  Fo and weave in ends. (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13, 13) 

Adding Buttons

Using needle and thread, attach the ½” buttons directly beneath each button hole, making sure they fit through the holes snuggly but with ease.  

 

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